Travel to Italy

Venice Observed (Art and Places)

Format: Paperback
Author: Mary McCarthy
ReleaseDate: 25 September, 1963
Publisher: Harvest/HBJ Book
Rating:

There are Better Books About Venice
It may be that this work was just the ticket for travelers in the nifty fifties, but it has long since been surpassed by more recent books, be they guidebooks or works of a more literary bent such as "Francesco's Venice" or "The City of Falling Angels" both of which I recommend highly.
There are better books about Venice to be read and enjoyed, written in the years since Mary McCarthy penned this book, which is a very particular, personal and peculiar look at the famed city.

Ms. Mary is nothing if not knowledgeable and she makes every effort to let you know just how very smart -- that is smarter than you -- she is. In the old timey way of those with literary pretensions, she loves to throw in quotes in other languages and let the reader puzzle them out - if you don't speak the language then be glad your computer will do free translations for you. She also assumes you have already studied the art, architecture and history of Venice thoroughly before turning to her book, and having been thus armed with the basics from elsewhere, she can now give you her added (she would claim, correct) slant on these matters.

The book is not as painful as her book about Florence - which is truly dreadful - but like that book this one is not a volume pitched to endear one to Venice. McCarthy's approach is that Venice is an acquired taste and we poor benighted readers are not sophisticated enough to acquire it to the degree that she has. One feels put down in Mary's pretense and this is not accidental.

She is glad to show you how much better, smarter, wiser, well-read and insightful she is than any of her readers may be. An odd and not very winning stance for an author to take.

What silliness! A taste for Venice can be acquired instantaneously, spontaneously, immediately. One need not know the art, architecture and history, to enjoy the sights the sounds and the people. All one need do is walk the winding paths from the train station to San Marco, or ride the Number 82 vaparetto full circuit to enjoy and appreciate the myriad wonders of the city on the lagoon. Do I sound like a Philistine? Well, what of it. To really get to know a place, one must do so with one's eyes out of the guidebooks or maps, and filled with everything there that is to be seen. Your experience of Venice may not be mine and vice versa, but dear reader, why put the blinders of Ms. McCarthy between you and this place that poets, writers, travelers and sojourners have loved for eons.

Yes, have a half day on Murano for relief (since the canals are bordered by walkways, they are easy to enjoy) and take an inexpensive ride over to San Giorggio Maggiore to go up THAT campanile (cheaper and better views than the campanile of San Marco). See the Must See points of interest if you choose, but if you don't, don't sweat it! There are lots of surprises around every corner, over every bridge and in every shop window. The Venetians are friendly, the food is good and it is impossible to take a bad photo there.

And as you stand on the crest of the Rialto Bridge, breathe one brief, silent prayer of thanks that Mary McCarthy isn't with you tisk tisking all the way!
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Read "The Stones of Florence" First
As in "The Stones of Florence," McCarthy weaves a tapestry of art, history, literature, sociology and cogent observation, but this earlier effort is not as well organized as the later book, leaving the reader to dig out the gems that lay within. Written in 1956, "Venice Observed" was a precursor to "The Stones of Florence" (1959), one of the better travel books ever written.

Apparently the original hardback versions of both books contained high-quality photographs, and were experiments in presenting the two modes of communication together. Depending upon which edition you buy, the paperback versions either lack photographs altogether or contain low-quality reproductions. While that obviously detracts from the experience, the text standing alone bears witness to an extraordinarily well-disciplined and fine mind at work.

Since McCarthy was born in 1912, she would have been 44 at the time this book was written, hardly the ingenue that other reviewers suggest. In fact, after reading both books, one suspects that this woman was born mature.

It is interesting to note that throughout this book, McCarthy refers to John Ruskin's "The Stones of Venice," which explains her choice of title for "The Stones of Florence. "
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Ugh
I read this book prior to a week-long trip to Venice. Talk about taking the joy out of an experience. This book quite simply accomplished none of its objectives. It is a poor "guidebook" and is poorly written and uninteresting in terms of a travelogue. The history and art of Venice are covered better in books from those genres. The only upside is that it is short. Yuck, what a waste of time. My advice is: get a novel about Venice if you like novels, a guidebook if you want that, an art book, or a history book. At least you'll get something out of those--this one tries all of these and fails. Actually, in terms of a travelogue, "Vendela in Venice" far surpassess any other Venice book I have seen. Although I originally bought it because it is considered a children's book, it is not dumbed down at all and adults will enjoy it. . . .

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